If it goes into protect: the problem is in the cables or headunit. If it is now on and not in protect: connect the RCA’s first. If it still goes into protect with just power, ground and remote the amp is bad. If it still doesn’t come on, it needs to be sent in.ĭisconnect RCAs and speakers and try turning the amp on again. If all power wiring tests good, remove the amp from the vehicle and test with short jumper wires directly at the battery, using a jumper wire from amp 12V+ to the remote terminal, just as a “I need to make sure” final test. If it does, the problem is in the head unit remote output or remote wire between the head unit and the amplifier. You can also make a jumper from the main 12V+ connection to the remote terminal to see if the amp comes on. If no voltage: check voltage at head unit. If all is good with battery voltage, it is now time to check the remote (or turn on) wire. If blown or bad: replace and start beatin’ again! Fuses can be “bad” and not blown especially the larger, cheap-ass, glass ones. NOTE: You cannot check a fuse by just looking. If still no voltage: check both sides of the fuse by the battery. If over 12 volts now: problem is in the ground wire or connection (between the amplifier and its chassis ground). If no or low voltage: ground the DMM (-) test lead to a good, clean, metal chassis ground in the vehicle and retest. If over 12 volts: check both sides of the fuses in the amp. You need to test with both (+ & -) leads on the amplifier Power terminals. Set DMM to DC voltage and check at the amp. If yes: thumb through the following scenarios
#KENWOOD POWER AMPLIFIER HOW TO#
You must have a DMM (Digital Muti Meter) and know how to use it. By the numbers, 40% of all amps returned to us work just fine and there is a problem in the wiring or install. Please try these things before sending in your amplifier.